Translation?

Wednesday, 18 April 2012

Biarittz is for the birds. The lucky ones.

The first weekend of les vacances de Pâques (Easter) began with a petit weekend at the Ocean of the Bay of Biscay.

Eloise and I began by taking the bus to the very east of Toulouse, then started to wander with a sweet (if I may say so) sign reading 'Biarritz...stp' spelled in inviting bright neon. As our meter of faith began to peter out, our first ride stopped. A city bus. This must happen as often as my teddy bear makes my bed. But if my teddy bear offered to do my tidying, I have to say I wouldn't refuse. We hopped on with mildly shocked grins. He took us a bit further up to the highway with a bit of advice and a cheery goodbye. After another short ride from two relaxed guys listening to catchy indian rap, we tumbled upon our luck. A talkative chap driving to exactly the same region, Bayonne, a city only 5 minutes away.


And stepping out to the ocean shore, we congratulated ourselves and walked along the shoreline searching coffee.

The original plan was to play games in the majestic casino, but (and be warned, all fellow americans), you will not be allowed in without a passport...I did my best to argue I was indeed an English citizen, but to no avail, we were banished to the bench to drink hot wine during the drizzly afternoon.










   






On the other hand, we had already procured a couchsurfer, an american named Anda, who came to find us with his friend William. Living in a gorgeous southern french home just a quick bus ride from Biarritz, Anda welcomed us in with a true couchsurfer spirit. He had run a race and won that morning, so impressing us with his regalia of trophies (which were cleverly turned into punch bowls).






The night continued with assorted games and foolery, nostalgic conversation reminiscing about the states, funny hats, and little ballades on William's vintage (by vintage I mean classic and classy, not second-hand) guitar.












After an adorable french breakfast, we sauntered back to the beach. Greeted by the welcoming sun, the surfers were out to play.



The pizzeria 
(majestic casino on the right)





After a must have lunch of pays basque-ean pizza, hints of ice cream wafted through the streets, as tempting as taking the carpool lane when you're driving single. To say no would be a crime indeed.


Thus Biarritz is a must do and do again.

Tuesday, 17 April 2012

Enfin, j'aime le neige! - Les Pyrénées

As I sat through one conversation after another with teenagers who had been at it since they began to toddle after their mamas, I began to acknowledge that I had never tried it. It was time. I layered my clothes until I felt like an eskimo in Hawaii, I strapped on the robocop boots, and grabbing the lethal sticks, I shot off down the slopes of Ax Les Thermes, Les Pyrénées.


This was on arrival, you can see my glimmering, happy naivety. 

I jumped clumsily off the ski lift, and we were off. I was skiing. Or...shooting down an icy ledge without any comprehension of how to cool the jets which had anonymously appeared behind my skis, forcing me along at a phenomenal speed.

I would like to say that I very quickly fell over, but instead I raced, arms flailing at the sides, eyes pinned open, I felt like I was learning how to drive by beginning with La Place de L'étoile, ...but all of a sudden, I had come to an intersection. My peripheral view instantly told me I couldn't turn right down the hill, it was like throwing a hamster out the window and expecting it to gracefully turn a cartwheel in the air before landing on all four paws.


Thus I crashed. Eloise came up behind and came to a ballerina-esque standstill, giggling. I was grateful to have lived, my ego was in no frail state. I laughed along.

And gradually got up, only to fall, after maybe 3 metres.

And again.


And again (I lost count).

I paused frequently for water, I had been clenching my stomach and gasping for air while smashing into mountains, falling on my face then my back, then my knees then while rolling down the hill like they teach you in fire safety lessons.



I took a tuna sandwich break and watched the red (high intermediate) slope. Experienced skiers glided down the piste rouge like prehistoric warriors. They were obviously insane.









We met with my two roommates, Catherine and Bertrand, who had been practicing the same flawless ineptitude by snowboarding. We mocked each other over a beer, breathing easily at the bottom of the mountain, no more easy chances of embracing our immortality.






But surprisingly, I felt exhilarated. I loved it. I wanted more. I decided to go again two weeks following.
Ready!

Nora, me, Mika, Ben

This time my mental preparation went a little far for the circumstances. I went with two first timers and an expert snowboarder. Nora was a bit more intuitive than I had been, attempting to understand technique before careening down the ice. Mika and I slid down together, taking hills in shifts, a bit at a time, waiting for the patient teacher and the hesitant (rightly so) pupil.






We stopped for déjeuner on a peak, munched on some veggie sausage, ham sandwiches, and fruit and soaking in a bit of sun before setting off again. Ben took the black (expert) slope a couple times, leaving us to take breathers.



















Mr Ben rocking out

'focus' face

'do I have to?' face




Then off down the blue..this one was just a bit steeper than before, Ben came down beside me, shouting out, urging me continually, 'Tiens toi droit, tout droit!'

At least I think that was what he was saying...I was split between my adrenaline and my unwillingness to fail (in other words, sheer panic).





Can everyone see how tantalisingly delicious this looks?
The day ended in chocolat chaud and lovely crêpes soaked in nutella amidst tranquilly liberated smiles, as every day in France inevitably should.

Saturday, 12 November 2011

Nantes, first taste of Brittany

He played the theme for
pink panther!

My principle teaching job allowed me a week of fall vacation without middle-schoolers, amazing cafeteria food (you would think that's an oxymoron, but I kid you not), or biking up Rue Camille Pujul, giving me carefree days without a plan or responsibility in Toulouse. I stuffed my brown canvas backpack with the bare minimum (I've become well-adept at this since Ibiza), hugged my kindle, and trotted (well,  not exactly, I took covoiturage) to Nantes for several days. 



The arrival provided a street-lamp yellowing view of a long row of tall, snugly side-by-side, starched white victorian buildings. I peered out the window, antsy to explore in the morning.
La Loire

My couchsurfer host, a lovely girl named Stéphanie, welcomed me into her disney-like abode. Disney because of the cold stone steps leading up to a wide dark wood door which curved gently to a pointed top. After an easy sleep, I dragged myself to find a little cafe with cheap cafe au laits, then bounced to find the real castle of Nantes, from which Stéphanie happened to live only a pebble's throw. As it was closed (as most of Nantes is on mondays, unfortunately), I began to wander after steeples. 

















My rain jacket is an indispensable travel partner, but not quite enough of a wind-breaker for the North. As I shivered, the leaves also shook, swirling around the path as I strolled down the white streets. The gusts eventually won, and I took the bus for the return. But I first found three churches. St Nicolas, Notre Dame, and the Cathedral St Pierre St Paul.


Entering the St Nicolas, I felt a somber solitude, 
only a quiet man sat in the rows of chairs all pointing solemnly 
to the altar. As I gazed upon the pulpit surrounded 
by tall white marble pillars against a stained glass 
background, suddenly from up above, the organ sounded 
three strong sinister notes.
Following a quick lunch break (I had packed a salad, graciously bestowed by one of my students who happens to run a chinese restaurant), I braced again for the wet north. I had been recommended a friendly couchsurfer, Tuco, who, with an umbrella and a smile, met me to tour the Versailles Island. Comprised of a Japanese garden, my favorite part was the indoor cabin with aquariums of plump fish. However, we soon gave up on site-seeing in favor of hot drinks and a conversation of the best of french music.


Tuco








On the way home, I walked down the canal and ignored the drizzle. 




That evening, Stéphanie appeased me with my request for a dinner of Bretagne crêpes and cidre. We found a sweet little restaurant in the Buffay district, and dined on some lovely crêpes savour, then flambée. The rain had let up, and during our night walk down the beautiful cobble-stoned streets between the majestic apartments, I tried to imagine a life which included peering from those windows protected by the typical french ornate iron railings.


The next morning, I rose to explore the castle once again. The castle was the best housing of a museum I think I've seen. The dim lighting held a warm contrast to the misty outside, and the ability to freely patter around the castle gave an authentic feel to the ancient artefacts. Inside glass cases were decaying books (my favorite was a secretive 'little black book'), miniature ships, and used-but grand-navy uniforms. In one white stone room just of f the twirling white stone staircase were computers with a 3d visual program of a comparison of Nantes from 200 or so years prior. I had no idea Nantes was historically such a booming naval town.




I then rushed off to the famous but not well-known Machines Museum. 
Several Nantes inhabitants had mentioned the place, and Tuco had shown me an impressive video of one of their spectacle Royal de Luxe parades, so I found the exploration somewhat necessary. 
And my god, was I not disappointed. These 'machines' were splendiforous. Really. 
I had never heard anything about them, and I can't imagine why. I think my best description of the phenomenon is a clash between Roald Dahl and Tim Burton, and although I hadn't imagined such a thing before, it's a perfect mixture.
The pictures will say it all. Enjoy!




On first walking across La Loire river, I could just barely see the museum, but suddenly a monstrosity of a carousel came into view, and I stood, agape.




"The Gallery" was full of fish creatures, small and large.

A presentation was made of several of the fishy machines,
and children climbed aboard for a once-in a lifetime ride.

My personal favorite.
A smaller room held visual history of the making of the enormous elephant,
which is available for rides daily.


We were allowed to take a peek at the factory,
the old ship warehouse, now home to machine
body parts being painted and structured.

A work in progress...I wonder if it will fly?





Et voila. Nantes was certainly a success.